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My main goals in bladesmithing are to reach the ultimate in form and function. I strive to make knives that are both aesthetically pleasing and built as well as they possibly can.
I forge most of my knives. This involves heating a bar of steel in a forge and then hammering it to the rough shape of a knife on an anvil. I do this because it is an age old art I'm proud to help continue, and something I love to do. Forging a blade allows the smith nearly limitless freedoms in what he/she can make.
I also make some of my knives via the stock removal method. This is accomplished by drawing a knife out on steel and cutting/grinding everything away outside of said drawing. This is how I got started and is a great way to make knives. It gives me the chance to use excellent steels that are not the most optimal for forging such as S30V and 3V.
A knife's purpose is to cut. Because of this, I work hard to give each knife optimal edge geometry and heat-treat. Heat-treating can make or break a knife, and I take it very seriously. Heat-treating is the most important part of a knife that you cannot see. In my quest for the best heat-treatment of my knives, I built a digitally (temperature) controlled molten salt bath, which allows the ability to control temperatures of my blades to +/-3 degrees F. I have done and continue to do careful studying and testing of the heat-treating processes for my knives. This is both an academic and physical study process.
I do not believe there is a perfect steel. The requisites for an individual knife will determine its needs in regard to steel choice, heat-treat, and edge geometry. However, for most purposes I use 1084, W1, W2, or 52100 for forging, and O1, 3V, and S30V for stock removal.
I try to get my grinds as perfect as possible, fit as tight as possible, and overall finish as clean as possible. All of these elements can be covered by saying I give much attention to detail. For me personally, a knife should be "clean." This means that the fit and finish of the knife are as tight and uniform as they can be. I think a super-clean look is a major factor in what separates decent makers from great ones.
I have a passion for the Japanese style of heat-treating in which clay is applied to the blade prior to hardening it. The result is a super tough blade with a hamon. A hamon, is one of the most beautiful things you can capture in a knife. It is a blend of both science and art. It requires an understanding of the steel as well as a lot of personal grit to stay motivated to polish a blade to show it well.
As per handle materials, I prefer natural things such as Ivory, Stag, and woods. Typically, I only use natural materials that have been stabilized by Wood Stabilizing Specialists Int'l. However, I do appreciate the durability of synthetics such as micarta, G10, and carbon fiber and utilize them on some knives. Handle hardware on my knives is usually 416 stainless steel, blued or browned carbon steel, or my Damascus. Some of the most beautiful fittings are those made of Damascus containing pure nickel that have been heat-colored.
As far as my thoughts on design and flow, they are best expressed in the gallery page.